Tours in Nice

Start at Place Massena in the late afternoon, when the pink and terracotta facades go warm and the square's wide paving catches the light. Nice is a city that looks best slightly sideways, at the hour when the sun drops low and everything softens. Locals know this. You will see them heading for the sea around then, without any hurry.

From the square, the Old Town begins within a few steps. Vieux Nice is a tangle of narrow streets, shuttered windows, laundry overhead and doorways that open onto small chapels or a baker's counter. Cours Saleya runs along its edge, a long open street where the market stalls, flowers and café tables spill into one another. Come in the morning for the produce, later for the terraces. Try socca, the thin chickpea pancake served hot and peppery, and a slice of pissaladiere.

Then walk to the water. The Promenade des Anglais follows the curve of the Baie des Anges, and the beach below is stones, not sand, so bring something to sit on. Everyone ends up here in the evening, walking, cycling, or sitting on the blue chairs facing the sea. Climb up to Castle Hill for the view back over the rooftops and the bay, which makes sense of the whole layout in one look.

Because the city is so photogenic, one of the nicest ways to spend a few hours is with a local photographer, who knows where the light falls and which corners are quiet. You walk, they shoot, and you leave with pictures of yourself actually there. If you want a guide for something else, the Old Town, the markets, the hill, the museums, or a day out along the coast, ask. A local guide can take the request.