Tours in Lucerne

Walk onto the Chapel Bridge early and you will notice the wooden roof first, then the paintings tucked up in the rafters, then the swans paddling underneath as if they own the river. Everyone crosses it. The trick is to cross it twice, once in the morning when it is mostly locals on their way to work, and once at dusk when the water goes dark and the old stone tower in the middle catches the last light.

Lucerne is a small city that sits right on its lake, and you feel that everywhere. The Reuss leaves the water and cuts through the old town, so you are always a few minutes from a bridge, a quay or a bench with a view of the mountains. Pilatus stands over the skyline, and Rigi is across the water. On a clear day they look close enough to touch. On a grey one they vanish completely, and the city turns quiet and soft.

The lakeside promenade is where the place makes the most sense. Locals walk it with coffee, swimmers drop in off the steps in warm weather, and the paddle steamers glide in and out. From there, wander back into the old town, with its painted facades, its squares and the Spreuer Bridge a little downstream. Its quieter, darker timbers are worth the detour. The Lion Monument, carved into a rock face, is a short walk away and strangely moving.

Because Lucerne is so photogenic, it is a good place to slow down and let someone capture you in it, rather than rushing for selfies. A local photographer knows which corners are empty and when the light turns kind. If there is a landmark you want to see that is not on our list, such as the Jesuit Church, the city walls and their towers, or a boat trip across the lake, ask and a local guide can arrange it.