Tours in Muscat

Start in Muttrah, in the evening or early morning, when the Corniche belongs to people walking rather than people photographing. Families come down to the water, men stand in small groups talking, and the smell of frankincense drifts out of the souq a street behind. Muscat is not a city of towers. It is a long curve of harbour, bare brown mountains and white buildings, and it makes sense once you see it from the waterfront.

The souq is the place to lose an hour. The lanes are narrow and a little dark, roofed over, and they twist enough that you will stop knowing which way you came in. Silver, textiles, dried fruit, perfume oils and incense are all sold side by side. Go slowly, ask what things are, and expect a conversation before a sale. A guide helps here, because half the pleasure is hearing what Omanis actually buy and what is there for visitors.

Then there is the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, which is the building most people come to Muscat to see. The courtyards and marble are calm in a way photographs do not quite carry. Dress modestly, and know that interior access follows visitor rules, so it helps to have someone who knows how it works. Old Muscat is a different mood altogether. It is quiet and ceremonial, with Al Alam Palace facing the harbour and old fort towers on the rocks either side. You view the palace from outside, and that is enough.

Beyond the city centre, Muscat has more to offer: the fishing coves, the Royal Opera House, the beaches, the wadis a drive away. If something here is on your list and not on ours, ask. A local guide can often build a day around it.