Tours in Ålesund

Start by looking up. The buildings in Ålesund's centre are all towers, turrets, curling ornament and pale stone, and they sit packed together on a small group of islands with water on almost every side. It does not look like the rest of Norway, and that is the first thing you will notice when you step off the bus or the boat.

Climb the steps up to Aksla, the hill above town. It is a proper climb, and the view is the reason people do it. You see the rooftops below, the islands scattered beyond them, and the sea going out to the horizon. Go back down and walk the harbour and the canals around Brosundet. This is where the evening settles, with people strolling, fishing boats tied up, and restaurants serving seafood that was in the water not long ago. Order the bacalao if you see it. Norwegians here take their salted cod seriously.

Ålesund is also a very good base for seeing the coast. The fjords around it fold into each other, and every turn of the road gives you a different view. The Atlantic Road is the drive most people have in mind. It leaps from island to island over open water, and on a windy day it feels like the sea is right beside you. The way back can run along the inner fjord, where the water is often still enough to hold a perfect copy of the mountains.

If you want to see something else, such as the nearby islands, a bird cliff or a walk through the old harbour quarter, ask. A local guide can build a day around what you actually want to see.