Tours in Sofia

Look south from almost anywhere in Sofia and there is a mountain at the end of the street. Vitosha sits right behind the city, and locals treat it that way, as a back garden. On a clear afternoon people leave the office and are on a trail within the hour. That habit tells you most of what you need to know about this place: a capital that never quite lets go of the outdoors.

In the centre, the walking is easy and flat. The golden domes of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral are the landmark everyone heads for first, and the square around it is where tours tend to begin. Nearby you can find the Rotunda of St George tucked into a courtyard, the Banya Bashi Mosque, the Sofia Synagogue and the Orthodox churches that sit within a few minutes of each other. Walk along the yellow-paved road and stop at the Largo, then wander down Vitosha Boulevard for coffee and people-watching. Boyana Church and the National Historical Museum are both out on the edge of the city, and a local guide can build a day around either if you ask.

The mountain is where we have the most to offer. Take a private guide up Vitosha and you choose the mood of the day: forest and waterfall, a rocky ridge with the city spread out below, or a long climb for the summit view. Pace is yours, and so are the stops for photos. The air changes the moment you gain a little height.

Go the other way, out across the Balkan Mountains, and the country turns strange. Two caves make a good half day: one is a cold, colourful chamber underground, the other an open passage where daylight comes through round holes in the roof. Bring a warm layer for the first. Both are a reminder that Bulgaria is a lot bigger than its capital.